Rainforest - Huanuco - Huaraz

Out of the rainforest (in teeming, thrashing, pouring rain, through rising rivers and prodigious potholes), we took refuge and a tepid shower in a nameless little town. In an act of apparent sympathy, the owners gave us a half-dozen towels which we used well.

Our new mate in Lima, Rodrigo, had put us in contact with some mates of his in Huanuco, another little town in the Peruvian backblocks. Needing to change a tyre and a set of wheel bearings, we headed to their workshop. If not for the necessary mechanical work, we would most likely not have hung around long. As it was, we were there for two nights, and I spent a full day in the workshop. More than that, though - once again we were 'invited in' by Wendel, his daughter Vanne and the family, and ate two lunches and a dinner with them. One of few opportunities we have had to get to know Peruvians from close-up. They gave us each a Pillco Moto club hat and t-shirt, and Wendel even went to the trouble of letting the police know we were coming through when we left, so that they wouldn't hold us up (this worked well). Muchas gracias!


Some of the crappiest roads we have ever seen - and we have seen a few - greeted us as we went the back way from the rainforest to the mountains. Along with a couple of quite unfriendly towns, and endless calls of 'Gringo!' from the side of the road. Enough said, I don't really think we want to relive this part of the experience, and I am sure noone wants to read about them. Even these roads, though, have their moments.


Credit once again to the tough old BMW. And the tough young pillion! We were heading for a town called Huaraz, somewhat of a mecca for hikers, climbers and other adventure-seeking types given its proximity to 6000m peaks, and to the Huascarán national park. When confronted with a fork in the road, we opted for the more exciting path, a route which took us over yet another pass over 4000m - on a deserted dirt road.

For the mechanically-minded, we have been dealing with a worn-out lower shock absorber bush for a while now, with no chance of getting a new one, and on this trip there were some roadside repairs to do when we broke another lower shock mount bolt. After the previous couple of days, we were well relieved to get there, find a hot shower, a comfy cafe with great 'gringo' food and atmosphere.