El Chaltén

Gluttons for the natural beauty of Patagonia, we headed straight from the glacier towards El Chaltén, a village that owes it's existence to the fact that it is nestled under the spires of Cerro Torres and Mount Fitzroy, further north in Los Glaciares National Park.

We were treated to an amazing (and apprently rare) view of the spires without mist as we approached just on sunset. El Chaltén - a collection of tin and fibro constructions - was unmistakable, lit up as if it were a city. Ironically, the brightest part of town was the power station, which apparently runs largely to illuminate itself. Despite the constant hum of the station, the village is a tranquil place, and we set ourselves up in one of the free campgrounds next to the river.

We were there to trek into the park, so we set about it in the morning. Our estimated time of departure was quite different from the actual time (nothing new there), and - having hired packs and stashed the motorbike - we set off for the spires in the late afternoon.

What a beautiful walk! The National Park is home to the largest ice field outside Antartica and Greenland, feeding 47 large glaciers, including Perito Moreno which we visited earlier. The valleys at the base of the spires are filled with green forests and icy-cold glacier fed streams. We walked up one of these, filling our waterbottle as we went. Andy couldn't resist putting his newly waterproofed boots to the test.

The designated campspot was about an hour's (very steep) walk below the torres. We set up camp next to another Aussie, Penny, who we got on with immediately, and, despite the fact that she had made the final accent earlier that day (see below), was pretty easy to convince to come another time.

We weren't disapointed. Up there, the spires rise straight out of the glacier field, and those out of the many lakes they feed. It's an awesome sight!

One ascent wasn't enough, and the next day we headed off for another go. In contrast to the harsh environment of the vegetation-free peaks and glaciers, the valleys are green fertile places dominated by Magellanic Beech forests, and are relatively protected and mild.

However, we couldn't stay in there forever, so, after we had lunch and stashed our packs, we headed again towards the torres.

After walking along and over glacial moraines (much to Andy's interest, and ours, as he explained the geology to us), we arrived at another lake at the base of another glacier.

We spent a few hours there in the warm sun, watching as icebergs floated over the lake.

Later, tired and hungry, we walked out, along aonther valley. Our packs seemed to get heavier with each hill, and we were very glad to arrive at the village. On the way, we trekked past a reminder that we weren't the only people to have been robbed.

We reunited ourselves with the bike, and headed back to the campground.

Since this time, we have had our photos stolen, and it will be a while before we get a copy of them again (from the internet cafe we uploaded them in at Bariloche ... we are very lucky!). These are all Penny's, who kindly sent them to us. Thanks Pen!