Free camping

When it comes to great camping spots, a few come to mind:

• under fir trees by a river, in heavy rain, in the Harz Mountains, famous as they are for their witches,
  
• beside a clear and chilly stream in Wales,
  
• the olive grove, then the beach on Korcula (see below).
  

The list is growing quite extensive, actually.

Then there are the cheeky, more adventurous places. We started in this vein when we visited Bibone, an abandoned beach resort in northern Italy. We arrived at the perfect time, long enough after the summer season for the place to be deserted, but not long enough for the beach umbrellas, set up in reguar formation for miles, to have been packed up. So we opened one on the waters edge, pulled up a couple of deckchairs ... and voila! a perfect campspot.

There was also the market stall in Plitvice National Park, in Croatia. That was fun - rainy night, very wet underfoot and we really wanted to avoid setting up (and wetting) the tent. So we cooked up under a sunshade, then camped up under the roof of a clean, dry shed. It wasn't quite the middle of nowhere, so we set the alarm for early enough to be out of there before the struedel-seller came. Surely we didn't dream it though?! Could that really have been a group of tipsy, giggling ladies going past at, maybe, four o'clock? They must have been real - the big gush of piddle that one of them did behind our abode sounded real enough. Oh well, nothing we wouldn't do ourselves...

Or what about the night near Trogir, again under threatening skies? That night the covered porch of a house under construction, second from the bottom of a dead-end street, seemed perfect. Man, it even had running water and a clothesline! It looked a good spot, and was - we cooked, cleaned up and made ourselves comfortable. Not a cingle house had line-of-sight to us, noone would ever know we had been there.

Except, possibly, the neighbour. They came home to their house at the end of the street very, very late. We awoke but lay silent and still as their car came down the road, stopped while they opened the gate (which, of course, creaked loudly and was interminably slow). We tried not to talk, giggle, or breathe too much as they talked outside. And I have to admit I wished I didn't smell so much when their terriers began yapping about the place. (From subsequent conversation it's clear we both wondered how to shut them up if they came over, with numerous options coming to our minds...)

The neighbours themselves allayed our fears of discovery when they began to argue loudly and vehemently, making far more noise than the little dogs had. They clearly had more to think about than who was making use of their neighbours' porch.

I mean, it's not fear of discovery itself that makes us a little nervous or excited when we camp in odd places. We're careful not to camp anywhere that people would find offensive or otherwise worrying, and we're happy to explain our harmless motives. It's more the idea that, if someone asked us to move on, we'd have to pack everything up, all into the various places on the bike, and have the hassle of finding a new place in the dark.

This didnt stop us though, from setting up camp on the top deck (also a heliport) of the ferry between Sicily and mainland Italy).

Or from making ourselves comfortable in an unused waterfront bar on a peninsula on the Croatian coast.

Or (what a find!) in Aussie bush Italian-style.

Azure

We're crossing the Adriatic Sea on a ferry at the moment, from Dubrovnik in Croatia to Bari in Italy. It was a bit of a hard decision to make, to leave Croatia, but we're on the boat now, more than anything else on the strength of plans we made earlier.

The clear waters, empty beaches and friendly people enchanted us for the last few days, spent on the island of Korcula. It's one of about 1200 island along the Croatian coast, and locals told us we would love any of the islands. Em chose Korcula, and the place provided a very special detour.

A couple of hours by ferry to Vela Luka - big port - from Split, we landed in a landscape of postcard views and timeless character. A large man guided us towards his mate's pizzeria.

Above the town and port rise steep, rocky hills, terraced over the centuries to allow the cultivation of olives. Flat, bright rocks pulled from the earth are stacked to form walls, and in places to build tiny houses or barns. We chose a good, wide terrace, partly shaded by a grand olive tree, and matched by one across the steep little road for parking. Em set up camp, while I went for wine and pasta, fruit and beer.

A special camp, among timeless (and abandoned?) rows of olives showing the agricultural efforts of centuries. We woke late and rose still later, then let the sun touch our skin for languid hours. Breaking camp was left for the afternoon.

There'd been talk of a second night amongst the olives, but the Adriatic had it's way. We motored lazily along the smallest roads we could find, away from little Vela Luka and along the coast of Korcula. Poplat, Novi, Tri Luke - not towns as such but localities, mostly nestled deep in inlets where the azure of the Adriatic faded through turquoise to crystal clarity.

Our coastal track led us to a bay; we had been far above the jewel-laden sea, and had looked longingly at the coasts of half-a-dozen islands. Two or three little houses surrounded the inlet we'd found, and in one of them there was even and elderly couple. We exchanged greetings as the sea enticed us closer.




Alone on the beach, we swam, picknicked, swam again and lay on a seaweed mattress to our hearts' content. Gentle breeze, clear seas, best friends. A long, easy afternoon, but we moved on before our birthday suits burned.

We came to Grscica, where we had coffee and then beer with a bloke who yelled out "G'day" to us. He was from there, but called Australia home like many Croatians whose paths we crossed.

Boats, wooded headlands, sunbleached stone, and an endless sea of clear, clear water and gentle waves. We motored on, stopping, photographing, hanging out. It was dark by the time we reached Pupnatska Luka, another little settlement of a half-dozen people. We wanted to camp on the beach, but also wanted to ask someone's permission and needed local knowledge to find the track to the beach. Another timeless-looking couple showed us the way, teaching us "thankyou" and "good night" in Croatian as they did so. They offered us home-grown oranges and olive oil too, completing both our dinner and breakfast with the gesture.

A short, steep trek through the ruins of a previous village and down to the beach was made longer by the fact that I'd forgotten to refill our stove with petrol. We went back up to the bike together, not only in the name of teamwork but also because it was just a little spooky! We cooked our simple fare, set up our nylon home and slept, content.

The morning brought a swim, then the opportunity to help the people who had been generous to us the night before. Together we landed their boat - Emily carried their outboard motor and I helped pull the boat up high on the beach.



On the ferry to the mainland, a bloke called Dennis assured us we'd be back, and invited us to look him up. It seems longer than a bare few days we were on Korcula, and they are sweet memories ...

Chatka

How sweet is this hut? It is set in the heart of the mountains on the Polish/Czech border, two hour's walk from the nearest road.


We spent an unforgettable weekend here trekking, eating home-grown fare and drinking (skulling, Andrew?) vodka by the fire with Kamila, Lucas (pictured standing, with Kasha between them) and their very fine bunch of friends, who treated us as part of thier crew despite the fact we weren't able to join in thier Polish shanites with the same vigour as they sang them!

It was brilliant, we owe you Poles another visit, hope to see you all in Australia soon!

Fallen leaves.

So yes, we enjoyed Berlin, largely for the view of 20th-century history that it gave us. We were visitors, after all, from a land that claims to have escaped the horrors of war, persecution, genocide, oppression.

Germany has got many hard truths to face up to, and face up it does. Em and I visited a number of museums during our days in Berlin, and some of them had real impact. I won't bang on about them, but a couple warrant and effort at description.

Mostly, the Jewish Museum at Berlin presents - brilliantly - the long, proud history of the European Jewry. Besides anything else, it's a bright and creative museum. There is an installation artwork called fallen leaves in there; I'll try to relate my experience of it here.

Despite the artist's invitation to walk on his or her work, you ask yourself whether it is really OK to accept and proceed. A sea of human faces is before you, expressions of anguish carved into their faces by the heat of a blowtorch. Walking on faces, people looking up at you, pained. Is it really alright to ignore their plight, add to their burden?

In taking my first step amongst the fallen leaves, i realised i was having trouble choosing wihch face - which anguished individual - to step on. and in trying to decide, my attention is all the more focused on the faces, leaves, pain. I was being asked to decide which of the mass of rusted steel people to disrespect more than the others.

Or ought I simply to march roughshod? With a little imagination - or just an inspection of human nature - I might be in the position of the jailer, the soldier, the monster whose job it was to persecute and disrespect the people beneath me. Real people, represented by the hundreds - or thousands - of rough-hewn, rusted steel faces beneath me. I felt I was asked to decide to ignore the humanity beneath my feet, to pretend that all of them deserved the same level of disrespect.

As I walk on them, the solid steel face-discs clang and clink against each other. Each step is advertised, there's no escape from the noise and no option but to admit that I am the perpetrator. Sure, I was one of four or five making the noise, walking over humanity, and I'm not sure whether that made it easier to commit the deed or not - we sure made a lot of noise. Certainly on reflection I realise that the first step onto the field of victims was made easier by others' presence on them. It's easier to be one of a crowd.

And that horrible noise! Reminiscent of nothing more than chains, haunting, heavy, sharp. The path of people narrows, leading into a gloomy corner. A one-way road, but one from which my position allows me to return, provided I maintain my uncaring air, and keep stepping on people.

I stoop to touch one of the faces, choosing a small one, and lift it in my hands. It is heavy, imperfect, one of a kind. Thick, cold steel rests uneasily in my hands. The person I'm holding shrieks. Anguish.

Berlin Berlin

There is much to be said about this beautiful, artistic, organised and reflective city.

As we are running out of time, I`ll post part of an email I sent my Nanna Win earlier this evening.

...this city has been carefully reconstructed after the War, and every free space seems to have been utilised for art or a positive message.


For example, today we walked past the Parliament (a magnificent building) and they have constructed a glass wall down one side with the 12 árticles´(I believe equivalent to a bill of rights) engraved into it.

Andy translated, the first begins with ´the worth of no person may be diminished...´.

Of course, they have some huge legacies to get over. Today we went to an open air museum, constructed in the ruins of the old Secret Police headquarters. It gave very specific information on the organised regime of murder that Hitler, Himmler and the other top men organised.

It is amazing to think they had the whole German population fooled into thinking they were doing the right thing. Without being dramatic, from my perspective, it seemed clear these men were all very sick, at the very least, psychopaths. The regime of terror and cold blooded murder they ran is absolutely horrific, and it is stunning to think they got away with it for so long, and on such a huge scale.

In cotrast, yesterday we went to the largest Jewish museum in the world. Firstly, the building is beautiful, a modern design based on acute angles, ánd even the floor isnt flat. It is big and grand, and impeccably laid out and presented.

The exhibition presented Jews as a very proud and talented people, and also a people who have been repeatedly persecuted, right back to the middle ages!

However, I got a sense they are not a race easily beaten, and manage to move with the times to make solid communties in many different situations and areas of the world.

We also visited a museum relating to the Wall, and the many attempts (some sucessful, some not) to get through, under, over or around it. ...

Not all glamour and glitz

Our enjoyment of our beautiful campspot in the Hartz mountains was (only just ever so slightly) marred by weater, which came down in buckets!

Free camping

There don't seem to be too many 'no camping' signs in Germany. Maybe this is because I can´t read them, or because the locals wouldn´t dream of camping in each other´s fields, but I´ve chosen to believe it means we can pitch a tent anywhere we choose.

Last night, as we have on many other nights, we left looking for a camp a little late. Instead of stopping in the national park we were heading for, we took refuge in small forest on the edge of a field.

Just after sunset, as I was cooking dinner (pumpkin and lentil curry - it´s pretty simple fare out here) and Andy was setting up camp, a huge tractor crept over the horizon, heading straight towards us, clunking away and lit up like Christmas.

While we were safaly hidden in the forest, we had left the bike in the field and thought we were surely sprung. I swear the lights shined straight on the huge regulation Áus´sign on the back of the panniers. The tractor, however, just slowly turned around and started crawling back up the hill.

Maybe it is German humour. He was spraying shit behind him.

They do things efficiently here. The manure created when animals are kept in barns over the cold winter is mixed with water and sprayed over the fields in summer. Our timing was impecable!

He sprayed and sprayed, and we ate our dinner to the aroma of horse-shit.

ahh! free camping!

(despite this, we had a lovely night in the forest, and fell asleep to the rhymical ´whoosh ... whoosh ... whoosh´of the wind turbines that towered above it :)

Much love, E and (on behalf of) A xxxx